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Carbide Tips, Strips, Bars, Blanks - Industrial Saws & Knives - Band Saws/Sash Gangs

The superior performance and longer life you can expect from Sharp Tool is the result of a combination of extra value features and the attention to detail of workman­ship, which is a trade mark of Sharp Tool products.

 RIGID FINAL INSPECTION by experienced band saw specialists is added insurance that every saw will measure up to our high quality standards.

 Saws 3" to 16" in width are furnished Single Cut, Single Cut with Sliver Teeth, or Double Cut - see illustrations.

SW TOOTH SHAPES are available from a 1" tooth space to 3" tooth space. This tooth style was developed to increase production and improve quality in sawmills. The SW tooth style with a very sharp corner is designed to increase the quality and the production in sawmilling. This tooth style will produce coarser sawdust than other standard tooth styles, being coarse enough that sawdust has little chance of going on one side of the blade or the other, causing snaky lumber. The tooth style was developed especially for winter cutting on spruce, pine and especially hard wood.

 In the early '60s the SW tooth style was used only in the winter but is presently being used both summer and winter, frozen or unfrozen timber with excellent results. This is the type of tooth that will help any user with a problem.

TOOTH BENDING OR UNEVEN SWAGING

 Set swage up according to the instructions for initial set­up, hand or air.

 Swaging Basics

1. Make sure your swage station isn't too high.
2. Make sure you can lean over the saw properly - so as not to pull the swage over to one side.
3. Don't replace just one clamp screw. Change them both, and at the same time resurface the anvil and move the die.
4. Keep the swage clean and properly adjusted.
5. Use carbide anvils, clamp screws, and side dies whenever possible. They last longer, work better, and cost less in the long run.
6. Watch for wear, and adjustment corrections - immediately replace broken or worn-out parts.

 Check Sharpener Alignment

 Refer to the Band Saw Troubleshooting Guide to ensure proper set-up of the sharpener.

1. Check feed finger and face plate alignment/wear.
2. Make sure the saw isn't sitting too high in the filing clamp or sharpener gate.

 NOTE: About 1/2 of all tooth bending/uneven swaying problems result from grinding off-center or out-of-square.

 Check Anvil

1. Make sure the anvil is absolutely square.
2. Set the anvil to the right height with the correct anvil setting gauge. The number of the gauge and die should match.
3. Check for wear. Replace the anvil if wear exceeds .001" - about the smallest amount you can "feel."
4. Check the position of the anvil to the saw tooth. Adjust the anvil to be flat on the back of the tooth by rotating the swage head forward or backward.
5. Anvils ground with back clearance cannot be set with anvil set­ting gauge.
6. Check for wear in the die "lock" or stop bracket. The die should be held firmly and not allowed to "slide" inside the head.

Check Clamp Screws

1. If the clamp screws are worn and have dull ends, it's time to replace BOTH of them.
2. The gripping ability of the tool could be hindered if the center ring is too high.
3. If the head is getting "sloppy", check for worn threads.
4. Keep the threads on the screws and in the head clean.
5. Are you able to cut a "donut"? Check the clamp screws by slid­ing a piece of paper between them and applying light pressure. You should be able to cut a perfect donut shape. Be careful not to clamp too tightly, or you could damage the clamp screws.
6. Saw gauges 20 or lighter, should use smooth end clamp screws.
7. Check for signs of slippage on the saw. Watch clamp screw marks. If there is blurring, it could be time for new clamp screws.
   
   NOTE: Slippage can occur from pitch build up in clamp screws. Pitch packed in the stationary clamp screw causes the tooth to bend toward the moveable clamp screw side. (Reverse is true of pitch in moveable clamp screw.)
8. USE CARBIDE TIPPED CLAMP SCREWS! They grip much better than steel.
9. Apply even clamping pressure.

Check Eccentric Die

1. If it is worn-out, replace it. If just one area on the die is worn, move it over to a "fresh" spot (at least 1/4" or 6mm).
2. Too much bite? Reset the back stop to reduce bite.
3. Is your die too big? Too small? Maybe you need a different swage size. See the Swage and Shaper Selector Chart.
4. Use the appropriate "style" or "bite" of die for your application. (See Die Selection Chart.)
5. Is the die hole in the head worn?

QUICK CHECK: is chamfer around the die hole a uniform width? Worn swage heads will have less chamfer 180 degrees from the anvil.

 Check Saw

1. Make sure the saw teeth are not bent before swaying.
2. Check to see if the saw was ground off-center (face or back).
3. Is the guide arm of the swage in line with the swage head? Check by lightly clamping a straight edge with the clamp screws. The straight edge should center between the "ears" at the front of the guide arm. Bend the guide arm as necessary until the straight edge centers when clamped with new clamp screws.
4. Are you swaging beyond the end of the filing clamp? Swaging a "flexed" or undamped saw will cause tooth bending or uneven swaging.

Check Shaper

1. Shaper jaws should be aligned, parallel and the ends should be flush.
2. Shaper jaws should always be a matched pair and should be correctly ground.
3. Be sure the saw is properly aligned down the center of the shaper.

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The Sharp Tool Co., Inc. , 7 Bonazzoli Ave. , Hudson, MA 01749
800-221-5452 / Local: 978-568-9292 / Fax: 978-568-9497 / E-mail: sharp@sharptool.com